Who lived in that house - Paxhill

By Richard Bryant, Lindfield History Project Group

Paxhill around early 1900s

This month’s article focuses on the large house, Paxhill, which stands on the hill to the north east of Lindfield Bridge, and its lands.

In common with much of Lindfield, its origins can be traced back to Saxon times, when the lands are first mentioned in the copy charter dated 765. The relevant section has been translated as, ‘the sloping enclosure, Walstead, Lindfield, Paxhill and Buxshalls’ which are described as ‘pastus porcorum’; swine pastures. Paxhill appears in the charter as ‘Bacanscylfes’ and this name carries through for many hundred years. In medieval times a nunnery stood close to the river. The wealthy local Borde family, variously spelt e.g. Board, are known to have owned the estate from at least the mid-1500s and the name Paxhill start to appear in records from the early seventeenth century.

The house we see today was built by Ninian Borde between 1595 and 1606 in the Elizabethan style to replace an earlier house. The latter date and his initials are inscribed above the main entrance. It is said some of the stones for the building came from the ruined nearby nunnery. On Ninian Borde’s death in 1606, the estate passed down through the family, with the last male heir William Board dying in 1790, leaving a widow, Harriot, (nee Crawfurd) and three daughters, Louisa, Harriot and Fanny Board. Paxhill passed into the Crawfurd family through the marriage of Fanny Board to her cousin Thomas Gibbs Crawford of Saint Hill, East Grinstead. Their son married Clara Homfray, of Honingham Hall, Norfolk in 1825 at Lindfield church, and their two daughters, Jane and Laura Crawfurd, inherited Paxhill estate in 1840. From 1828, the estate was leased until family members returned during the late 1840s.

In 1849, Jane Crawfurd married Arthur Smith, who (with his brother Albert) became well known as the first Englishmen to climb Mont Blanc on 12th August 1851. During the 1850s, Arthur Smith managed the Egyptian Hall in London and with his brother gave performances recounting their exploits on Mont Blanc. Being acquainted with Charles Dickens, during the late 1850s he handled the bookings for his readings and accompanied him on tour, in effect acting as Charles Dickens’ tour manager.

Drawing by SH Grimm dated c1787

On land adjacent to the Ardingly road within the Paxhill estate, Arthur Smith built The Chalet in the early 1850s. Arthur Smith died in 1861 and two years later Jane Smith married Emile Bouchard, an officer in the French Hussars, and the property became part of the marriage settlement. The Chalet subsequently passed through many owners before becoming a religious house, St Margaret’s, and latterly in 1967 the Convent of the Holy Rood for the Sisters of the Cross. Today known as Hollyrood, it is a Disabilities Trust adult residential home.

By 1855, Arthur and Jane Smith together with her sister, Laura Crawfurd, had left Lindfield to live in their London house in Grosvenor Place. Paxhill was leased before being sold in 1856, thus ending some 300 years of ownership by the Borde/Board and Crawfurd families. The purchaser, Rev Borsley, quickly sold it to Thomas Herbert Noyes of East Mascalls, Lindfield, who lived in the house for a short time. Subsequently it was bought in 1865 by Peter Northall Laurie, the Governor of the Union Bank of London since 1861; his uncle had founded the bank. The bank following several acquisitions amalgamated with the National Provincial which subsequently became a constituent of NatWest, now part of Royal Bank of Scotland.

By this time the house was showing its age and needed modernising, which the wealthy Mr Northall Laurie immediately put in hand, including installing a bathroom; reputed to be the first in Lindfield. He also significantly extended the house. Following his death in 1877, the estate was again put up for sale, and was bought at auction for £39,000 by William Sturdy. It was to be the country home for himself, his wife Frances and their large young family. They employed around 20 live- in indoor and outdoor staff. The estate when purchased by William Sturdy comprised 353 acres of land and the large well- appointed mansion with an extensive range of rooms and servants quarters. Outside were lawns, pleasure grounds, shrubberies, an Italian garden, kitchen and fruit gardens, a heated vinery, and a peach and nectarine house. Beyond was parkland stretching down to the River Ouse, with a lake, boathouse and fish ponds. The coach house in the Elizabethan style had space for eight carriages. Properties within the estate included Bridge House and Grange Farm with its farmhouse and brick cottages Like the previous owner, William Sturdy extended the house and embarked on a major programme of improvements to the house and grounds. On his death in 1906 at the family’s London house, William Sturdy left an estate of over £1million and during his time at Paxhill had acquired a portfolio of Lindfield property. In his memory a stained glass window, depicting Justice and Prudence was installed in the South Chapel at All Saints Church. Previously, William Sturdy had given the church a new tenor bell and ringers’ gallery in 1887 and the Sturdy family also funded the building of the Choir Vestry in 1911.

His son, William Arthur Sturdy, took over Paxhill, and was active in village life through to his death in 1918, aged 48. He was a considerable benefactor to Lindfield. King Edward Hall would not have been built opposite the Pond had he not provided the land. Likewise, the miniature rifle range in Alma Road during the Great War. This was just one of his many good and generous deeds at that time, these ranged from providing workrooms for the Lindfield Voluntary Work Organisation making clothes and dressings for the wounded, to funding the purchase of a potato sprayer and chemicals for residents to borrow.

Following William Arthur Sturdy’s death, Paxhill remained owned and lived in by family members. Early in the Second World War, the estate was requisition by the military becoming a camp for the Canadian Army and the Black Watch. It is said about 70 huts were built to accommodate 1,500 troops on the land alongside Park Lane. Military equipment, including large quantities of ammunition and shells, were stored throughout the park. The officers’ mess was located in the house, a part of which remained occupied by the Study family and staff. The camp had all the necessary facilities from water tank to sewerage works and even a cinema, to which the more adventurous village boys would seek to gain access. The military presence reduced after D-Day and at the war’s end the camp was used to demobilise returning British prisoners of war.

Paxhill continued to be occupied by members of the Sturdy family until about 1960 when it was leased first to Preston College, Brighton, and then to Captain Goodwin for use as a retirement home. The property was sold in 1970 bringing to an end almost one hundred years
of ownership by the Sturdy family. Further changes of ownership followed with the house continuing to be used as a home for the elderly until 1999, when it was sold and converted back to a private residence.


All Saints Church through the ages

By Richard Bryant, Lindfield History Project Group

Early sketch of All Saints Church

All Saints Church, standing at the top of the High Street, was built in the 1300s in the Perpendicular style, as characterised by large windows with upright lines. Over the centuries the building and interior has changed and evolved to reflect changing needs.
The interior in medieval times featured a rood loft separating the Nave from the Chancel. A rood is a large crucifix, usually accompanied by the figures of the Blessed Virgin and St John placed one each side of the cross. The English Reformation and the actions of Henry VIII led to the dissolution of religious houses. The College of Canons of South Malling, who had controlled the parish for centuries, was dissolved in 1545 and their manorial lands passed into lay ownership, as did the tithes which was to be particularly detrimental in the centuries ahead.

Commissioners were appointed to ensure all traces of idolatry were removed from churches across the country. Around the 1560s the Commissioners reported the parishioners of Lindfield were ‘very blind and superstitious’, indicating some reluctance in Lindfield to acknowledge the new Protestant religion. Eventually the idolatry was removed, walls whitewashed to cover murals and the rood loft demolished in 1583 with the timbers being sold. The stairs leading from the south Transept to the rood loft were filled in: A few steps were uncovered during the 1930s. The spire was also re-shingled at the cost of 50 shillings, and this has occurred many times since but at ever increasing cost.

Steps once led to Rood Loft

In 1617 William Newton of East Mascalls arranged the repair of the exterior ‘without battlements’, and this work is recognised by the inscription of ‘1617’ on the Chancel gable and can still be seen today. This was to be the last major work for 250 years during which times, without the tithes, the building gradually fell into disrepair. The church was in a poor state when Reverend Francis Sewell arrived c1840. Having recently been ordained and in possession of a moderate fortune, he soon set about re-establishing and restoring the church. At that time the Cambridge Camden Society was influential in ecclesiastical style and architecture, and their dictates were embraced by Francis Sewell.

During the 1840s Francis Sewell instigated two restorations, firstly in 1845 for the building and three years later for the interior and new pews. The churchwardens appealed for subscriptions, with a separate fund each restoration. The works were put in hand, before funding had been fully secured, with the interior fund taking precedent. This resulted in much acrimony over several years, and even a court case between the churchwardens.

The interior restoration reflected the Cambridge Camden Society’s doctrines resulting in the destruction or removal of many historic features, including an altar tomb, brass memorials and three wall paintings. Francis Sewell had lengthy correspondence with the Incorporated Church Building Society regarding new pews designed to accommodate 567 people and whether upper-class members of the congregation should be provided with hat boards on which to place their top hats. Eventually the Society provided £200 towards the cost.

Nave with Chancel Screen in Chancel Arch

Rev Francis Sewell before leaving Lindfield in 1849, the year work was completed, made a contribution towards the total costs. However, as donations from parishioners did not reach the required amount it took the parish several years to clear the deficit. Following Rev Francis Sewell’s return to Lindfield in 1857 he installed gas lighting in the church, supplied from his private gas manufacturing plant which also lit The Welkin and his St John’s School. A striking addition to the church in 1859 was the installation of the clock on the tower’s south face. Previously the clock movement had been in a building at Cawnpore that was demolished following the Indian Mutiny. Charles Kempe, the renowned stained glass artist and church furnisher, having recently moved to Lindfield following his purchase of Old Place, turned his attention to the church in the late 1870s. He promoted the need for a further restoration, with an ambition to reorder the interior with new pews, replace the old chancel screen, increase the bells and improve the heating. However, relations between Charles Kempe, the church authorities and residents on his aims were not always harmonious. His gift of a new chancel screen, after it had been made, was rejected and not accepted until long after his death.

Nave with Chancel Screen in Chancel Arch However, the need for improvements was soon generally recognised and in 1879, to accommodate heating pipes, a new wood block floor was laid. The churchwardens, in 1882, established a fund for £2500; indicating that much work, especially to the building, was still needed following Sewell’s restorations some 33 years earlier. Donations were received and many fundraising events organised, including Charles Kempe opening the grounds of Old Place for a two day Elizabethan Fiesta.

Massets (South) Chapel pre 1945

Somers Clarke Junior, a respected ecclesiastical architect, was appointed to undertake the work. His reports indicate the roof was in a dangerous condition at the time of the earlier 1840s restorations, as the walls had parted from the rafters and only temporarily secured by nails. Also that the tower and parts of the church building exposed to the south-west needed repair. Accordingly much structural work was undertaken. The Sewell renovations were more concerned with style rather than structure.

The box pews installed in 1848 were replaced, the Nave received new oak benches funded by a bazaar held at Sunte House in July 1885. Two years later similar benches were provided in the Transepts thanks to a bequest. The choir stalls were also replaced. All the seating was made by Norman and Burt of Burgess Hill. At this time the decision was taken that all seats would be free and open to all.

The increased prosperity of Lindfield during the late Victorian period is evidenced by the gifts of memorial stained glass windows and church furnishings. Collectively these enhanced the interior. The church was little changed during the first two decades of the twentieth century other than the addition of the choir vestry in 1911 and five stained glass memorial windows. Kempe’s Chancel screen, rejected by the church authorities in 1885, was accepted in 1926 when Old Place was sold by his cousin, Walter Tower. This beautiful piece of woodwork was installed in the Chancel arch.

To ensure the building was maintained in good condition a major repair programme, mainly focused on the roof, was undertaken in 1930 at the cost of £2,000. The most visible elements of this restoration were the complete reconstruction of the Chancel roof, together with the replacement of the old gas lamps with electric lights. To help pay for the reroofing an enormous fete was held on 2nd July 1930 in the gardens of Old Place. Two years later the Clergy Vestry was built.

The position of the organ installed in 1897, replacing the original 1839 organ, blocked the entry to St John’s Chapel. A generous donation by Blanche Cumberlege of Walstead Place in 1937 funded the repositioning of the organ to a new gallery at the rear of the Nave. Immediately after the Second World War, the seats in the south (Massets) Chapel were removed and it was considerably altered to provide a memorial to the village men who died during the war. The church remained largely unchanged for the next four decades.

In 1987 a comprehensive reordering of All Saints was proposed, the principle features being new and increased seating and the repositioning of the Holy Table. The proposals created considerable debate resulting in a much reduced plan being implemented in 1991. The most visible change being Kempe’s Chancel screen was moved from the Chancel arch to the rear of the Nave. The latest phase of the Aspire project, launched in 2013, to keep the building in good repair and meeting modern requirements, has recently been completed.


The growth of Lindfield

By Richard Bryant, Lindfield History Project Group

Two residents on meeting in the High Street were overheard discussing all the new housing being built in Lindfield and whether facilities could cope and the character change. The conversation didn’t take place recently but in 1901. For many centuries Lindfield village comprised little more than the High Street. Through roads such as today’s Lewes Road, Denmans Lane, Hickmans Lane, Sunte Avenue, West Common and Summerhill Lane existed as little more than tracks with the occasional isolated cottage and all bordered by fields. The prosperity of the Victorian era and the coming of the London to Brighton railway line created the need for new housing, especially for working class families. Lindfield started to grow with short rows of cottages appearing around the village. The more affluent built villas on Black Hill. By the last years of Queen Victoria’s reign and the early Edwardian years, new roads were being constructed, most notably Eastern Road, Luxford Road (originally called Western Road) and Compton Road. Leading local businessmen, and those with money to invest, either commissioned houses to be built on these roads or purchased houses constructed speculatively by builders. All were participating in ‘Buy to Rent’, as most people could not afford to buy. The tradesmen and shopkeepers recognised that an increased population meant more business. It was at this time the Haywards Heath and District Building Society, established in 1890, started to prosper (merging with the Yorkshire in 1992). Housing commenced along Lewes Road, and in 1906 local businessmen Charles Wood and Frederick Beeny (the great-grandfather of TV property developer Sarah Beeny) started the West View development. Originally planned for 30 houses but, beset by problems mainly relating to drainage, only 17 were built, including a corner shop. On completion it was nicknamed White City. In little more than half a century the number of dwellings in Lindfield village more than doubled. However this growth came to an abrupt stop with the Great War. The coming of peace brought a mood to create a ‘Land fit for Heroes’. Lindfield Women’s Institute made representations to the local authority that many new houses were needed for working families, but disappointingly only six were subsequently built.

The country being impoverished by the war, together with the economic depression, resulted in few new houses during the 1920s. The next decade saw housebuilding start again, with the 1937 Ordnance Survey map showing ‘infill’ housing in Luxford Road, Eastern Road and elsewhere. Most new properties were developed plot by plot along existing roads, on the Haywards Heath side of the village, such as Backwoods Lane, West Common, Summerhill Lane, Sunte Avenue plus the new Denmans Close and Oak Bank, Brook Lane and Roundwood Lane. These roads comprised mainly detached houses, with many designed by the respected architect Harold Turner. He undertook a wide range of commercial commissions across Britain and abroad but is best known locally for his high quality domestic architecture with ‘arts and crafts’ period features. The late 1930s saw the infrastructure put in place ready for housebuilding in Chestnuts Close, Summerhill Drive and Meadow Lane. However, the Second World War delayed completion of these schemes. The building during this pre-war period added around 270 houses.

Again war impoverished the country and building was slow to recommence apart from a few houses. Most notably in Hickmans Lane were the 12 semi-detached St Johns Cottages on land given by Maud Savill to the District Council for demobbed servicemen and their families. It was in the early 1950s that the local authority acquired the land of Box’s Nursery and erected housing in Chaloner Road and the first sections of Newton Road. The next ten years saw larger scale private housing developments start on new roads such as Dukes Road (also built on Box’s Nursery land), West Common Drive, Appledore Gardens, Pelham Road, Beckworth Lane and Close, Oakfield Close, Finches Park Road and the first section of Savill Road. Collectively, in the 20 years up to 1965, some 400 houses were built in the village In Lindfield’s rural area to the west of the village, a few houses existed along Gravelye Lane. However, during this period significant housebuilding commenced in this area, with the construction of William Allen Lane and adjacent roads south of Gravelye Lane. These residential schemes, all completed by the mid-1960s added a further 100 houses. The map of Lindfield had changed dramatically and more growth and change was on its way. During the next ten years much needed building land became available through the demolition of the Mid Sussex Steam Laundry, the County Hotel (previously Finches) and The Welkin, following closure of the preparatory school. The most controversial proposal was for the Welkin site, with a plan to construct a large high-rise apartment block comprising nine storeys. Residents were horrified and following much protesting, that ultimately led to the formation of the Preservation Society, the scheme was scrapped and the dwellings as seen today built. The land previously occupied by the other demolished buildings, and land that became available, resulted in the completion by the mid-1970s of the Meadow Drive development, second parts of Savill and Finches Park roads, By Sunte, Finches Gardens, Blackthorns, Shenstone, Brookway, Fieldway, Pickers Green plus others totalling well over 650 houses.

Around this time national house-builders such as CALA Homes were looking covetously at the farmland between Gravelye Lane, Scamps Hill and Lyoth Lane. Following the earlier successful Welkin protests, campaigning started again. Local newspaper articles liberally used the word ‘battle’ and the campaign took the style of ‘The Battle to Save Lindfield’. Victory was again achieved and development plans were put on hold for another day. Effectively, a ‘red line’ drawn down Gravelye Lane made land to the south and other pockets of land the only possible potential developments. Developers were quick to acquire and build on the land south of Gravelye Lane resulting in Westlands Road, The Hollow and nearby roads with about 150 houses being completed by the beginning of the 1980s.

The demise of Lindfield Nursery, better known locally as ‘the mushroom factory’, provided land for the Noahs Ark Lane development. Two more nurseries went the same way, resulting in Harvest Close and Linden Grove. These totalled 150 new homes. During the 1980s and 1990s, the scarcity of available land resulted in a reduction in housebuilding, the main developments being Summerhill Grange, on land that had been part of Tavistock and Summerhill School, and Portsmouth Wood Close. These totalled nearly 60 new detached houses. An ever increasing demand for housing in the new century encouraged the national house-builders to again set their sights on Lindfield and encroachment on to agricultural land. The fields once part of Luxford Farm, behind Newton Road, became the target. Archaeological evidence showed the fields had been farmland for over 1,300 years. Despite some opposition, it was not long before 125 dwellings at The Limes were being lived in. Attention then turned once more to the Gravelye Lane, Scamps Hill and Lyoth Lane triangle that had been vociferously fought over in the 1970s. This time planning permission was granted for the Heathwood Park development, with construction continuing today towards 230 dwellings on completion. Last year saw ground being broken, further down Gravelye Lane, for 130 homes at the ironically named Lindfield Meadows. There will no doubt be more building in the future. But it certainly isn’t new phenomenon!


Lindfield Primary School memories

by Richard Bryant, Lindfield History Project Group

Circa 1956

This month’s article reflects the memories of pupils attending this school in the wartime 1940s and following decades. Interestingly, many similar aspects of school life were remembered, but details varied with attendance years. The school had two air raid shelters: a boys’ shelter and a separate one for the girls, built in the playground. The entrances were about three feet apart, opposite each other, and were disliked by children and teachers alike. From the middle of the war they were not normally used during air raid warnings, although practices continued. Shelter was taken under desks when a flying bomb was imminent. Each Monday morning, the teachers sold National Savings stamps to support the war effort, collected dinner money and administered doses of cod liver oil. Life across Britain started to return to normal with the arrival of the 1950s. One cherished memory from 1951 was a school trip by senior girls to London for the Festival of Britain, a showcase of modernity and a bright future, with the futuristic Skylon Tower and Dome of Discovery exhibition. The Festival was in stark contrast to life in rural Lindfield and its Victorian school buildings with their high windows and wooden floors; one classroom still retained tiered desking.

Cricket Team 1959

Assembly started each day with classical music playing while children filed in and out, and, of course, the hymn singing. Some of the hymns were written on huge sheets of paper hung at the front. Jerusalem was among the most popular. Another ritual was morning milk with an individual small bottle for each child. It was not unusual on very cold days for the top of the milk to be frozen, and if stood for too long in front of a radiator it became tepid and unpleasant. One feature universally and adversely recalled across the decades were the outside toilets, described as dark and freezing during the winter months. Maintenance was sometimes poor and several girls mention having to put a foot under the door for a friend as often the locks were broken. The boy’s facilities were equally unpleasant.

Another feature remembered with a shudder from the late 1960s onwards was the outdoor swimming pool, donated by the Parent Teacher Association. The shallow water was extremely cold and the bottom very slippery. Having to step into a horribly dirty footbath before climbing the ladder to get into the “ice bath” was also well-remembered. Perhaps a thought should have been spared for the 1930s pupils who walked to the Ouse for their swimming practice! In the years prior to the school having its own pool, selected senior pupils were taken to the Birch Hotel for swimming lessons. This was regarded as a real treat, their names having been ‘drawn out of a hat’. School dinners are much remembered; while some are good memories, others are less favourable. From 1948, lunch was taken in the then new canteen in the girls’ playground. Children queued at a hatch for food, to be eaten seated at long tables with benches. The lunches were widely regarded as lovely and the dinner ladies held in special affection. Favourite dishes included spam and baked bean pie, banana custard, crumble, gypsy tart (evaporated milk, sugar and pastry), rice pudding with jam and Sussex Pond pudding. Less popular were semolina, chocolate sponge with chocolate custard, tapioca and, served in the 1950s, reconstituted peas and butter beans. There was always fish on Fridays. In the early 1970s, if sprouts weren’t eaten, rubbish had to be picked up from the playground. Prior to comprehensive schools progression to secondary education was selective, requiring sitting the dreaded 11 plus examinations, held in the Social Centre (aka Reading Room) and sternly invigilated by the vicar and school governors. Equally nerve-wracking was results day: the headmaster read out the names of those who had passed to attend grammar school, with each name being greeted with clapping and cheers. Becoming a grammar school pupil was a proud achievement. Originally there were three playgrounds, mixed infants, boys and girls. It was many years before segregation in the playground ended. All the usual childhood games were played, including kick-about football, hopscotch, skipping and ‘conkers’ in autumn. There was also a netball court and, in earlier years dancing around the maypole. In summer, breaks could be spent playing on the Common, much fun being had in the new mown long grass. The Common was also used for football, cricket, stoolball, running and sometimes gym, as well as the obligatory annual sport day. Teams have always proudly represented the school in district schools competitions and leagues, with admirable results being achieved.

Netball Team 1963

The curriculum included gardening classes teaching the basics - sowing, planting and tending plants - and pupils were allowed to stay after school to spend extra time with their plants. There were the ever-popular after-school clubs; the perennial choir and, in the 1950s, the much-enjoyed country dancing on a Friday afternoon. Another stalwart, proudly watched by parents, were the school plays. Over the years a wide range have been performed from Ali Baba in 1957 to the Nativity plays, at King Edward Hall or the Social Club building, latterly part of the school. Throughout the decades, major village events and royal celebrations have been supported with singing, dancing and gym displays; perhaps most notable were the Coronation Pageant in 1953 and everyone dressing up for the school centenary.

During the 20th century’s less enlightened years some teaching methods and punishment harked back to Dickensian times. The school cane hung prominently in the headmaster’s office as a visual deterrent against misbehaviour. Teachers applied their ruler for a purpose other than measuring and drawing straight lines. In the infant classes, any child that had the temerity to attempt to write with their left hand had a wooden ruler come down with some force on the back of the hand. Misbehaving children would be stood on their chair and smacked on the back of the legs with the ruler. One female teacher in the early 1960s, it is recalled, had her own unbelievable punishment for misbehaviour. The miscreant received her ‘black hole punishment’ and was shut in a small confined black space. What would Ofsted have said?! Everyone remembered their headteacher and teachers, many as caring, kind, lovely and very sweet and a few disliked, being described as nasty, scary, fearsome and horrid. Nevertheless, overall the school was warmly acclaimed with good memories, perhaps best summed up in the phrases ‘fortunate to have attended such a lovely school’ and ‘gave me a good start in life’. One could ask no more from a school. No reminisces would be complete without mention of the old school bell. With thanks to Lindfield Memories Facebook group, Lindfield Life readers and all contributors.

School play